Congrats, you just got a new puppy. The little fella is probably about 8-10 weeks old and for the first time he is separated from his Momma and siblings. He spent those first few months learning everything he could from his birth pack. Their’s was a language of eye contact, movement, and touch. Now, he is thrust into a human world where we talk a lot but communicate little. There may or may not be another dog in the house, and if there is they are likely in a much different season of their life. So, it is up to you to teach the dog. But just like kids, more is caught than is taught, and this is what leads to unwanted behaviors.
During the average dogs life, they will meet many more people than they do other dogs. Even more than that, they will watch people meet people. The most common place that your dog will meet people is the same as you, your front door. When someone knocks at your door and you open it, the greeting is always face to face, usually with direct eye contact. This is what the dog sees over and over again. They mimic your behavior by going face to face, standing right in front of the person. The immediate response of the person is to look at and acknowledge the dog. If they bend down to further engage the dog as you stand there watching, it tells the dog not only is this appropriate but also how to get exactly what they want which is attention. They learn that the most exciting place is just in front of the door. If the person begins to walk away and the dog jumps, the reaction of the person will be to immediately look down at the dog. This teaches the dog that jumping is the way to get the eye contact back that led to them getting the physical attention. The cycle continues. People meeting is linear, dogs meeting is circular.
The way people greet people and the way they show dogs to greet people is in stark comparison to how dogs naturally greet each other. In a natural setting, there is plenty of room to move and circle. Dogs flank each other when calm. Then they circle and sniff. After that, they will engage with a play bow or simply walk away.
When the time comes to meet another dog, it will most likely be with both dogs on a leash….a tight leash. The dog is out ahead of the handler, sometimes pulling and clawing its way to another dog. The dog is in charge, over excited just the same as they are with people. Imagine someone you have never met before running up and hugging you. You might feel a little overwhelmed. Your reaction would probably be to yell at them and push them back with your hands and arms. Dogs don’t have hands and arms so they will nip or bite to create distance if a bark or growl does not suffice. Now even the friendliest dog that gets that response will most likely respond using their teeth and terror ensues. All because people allow their dogs to control the situation when they meet people and dogs a like. This leads to bites. You need to be out front of your dog. Here are some tips on conditioning your dog to focus on you during the excitement of meeting a dog or person.
Show the dog that the door belongs to you- every time you open your door, without saying a word, put your back to the door and open it behind you. If your dog advances, walk towards them standing erect. Few things are more exciting to a dog than an open door. By standing in front of it facing them, you are bringing all that attention on you. Make eye contact with them. This teaches them that action at the door requires eye contact and focus on you in order for them to know what they are allowed to do.
Then add to this by having someone knock or ring the doorbell. Now we are adding an audible stimulus to the physical one. Your dog will likely beat you to the door. Walk up behind them without saying word and get between them and the door. Look out the window/peephole and decide whether the person is coming in or staying out. Before you open the door, put your back to the door and open it as you move towards the dog just as you had been. Naturally dogs will move towards an open door to get to what they see and smell beyond. With consistent work on this technique, anything at the door is a cue to focus on the handler. The same thing should be done whenever taking the dog in or out for a walk on a leash. Facing your dog should always mean back/stay.
Ask people to only look at you and other people in the house instead of the dog as they come in. No matter what the dog does they should walk right past/through them if they are coming in. If you act like the dog is not there, they will act like they are not there. If you focus on them, they will learn that this is the best time and place to physically and mentally control people to get what they want which is attention. As you do this, the dog will begin trying to do whatever they can think of to get attention. Eventually, they will calm and walk up beside you or the guest and sit with their back to you. When they do this, immediately pet them without saying a word. They learn that the faster they settle the faster they get what they want.
Meeting people out and about- if you want to allow someone to pet your dog, tell them to keep eye contact with you as they stand up tall. Then tell your dog to “go say hello”. They will approach and sniff around the person. If they want to be petted, they will give the person their side in invitation to pet them. If they are not interested, they will walk way. Allow your dog to decide. Doing it this way puts no pressure on the dog. Typically people bend down and offer a hand as they move closer to the dog. This can make a dog feel like they are backed into a corner and as previously discussed may end up in with a bite to the face or hands as the dog attempts to create space. Someone crouching down to the dog with direct eye contact can be seen as a challenge. A dominant may bite to win the challenge, a submissive dog may bite to get away. Always do your best to never approach a dog head on, instead walk up next to them.
Introducing dogs on a leash- first I want to say that if you have any concerns about they safety of your dog or the other dog they are meeting, don’t do it without a professional trainer present.
The worst possible thing is to let the two dogs pull the handler towards each other. This causes the handler to pull back from the direction they are being pulled and this only encourages the dog to fixate on the dog in front of them. Instead, start with the dogs about 25 yards apart. At the slightest tension on the lead or barking/growling, turn in a circle away from the other dog. This takes the dog’s eyes off of that dog physically and puts them on you. You are also turning your back to the dog sending the message that you are not concerned about them. Continue as you can if the dogs are calm. If they calm, move closer five yards or so at a time. Be sure that nobody is talking or yelling. Once you get within five yards of each other, turn and walk away back to the 25 yard mark. Now walk past each other with about 10 yards between you and repeat. Your head should be looking forward. Pop and relax the lead with any tension or barking growling. Continue until you feel comfortable. Then and only then, walk up to each other with loose leads and allow the dogs to circle and sniff.
The above teaches the dog to focus on your behavior, not just theirs. Most negative dog and dog interactions are the fault of the owners going too fast and/or not being in control of their dog.
We have covered a lot of information in this post. Read it a few times, digest it, and get to work with your dog. It is the little things you do everyday that have the biggest impact on them.