Immediate Correction Lead
The Immediate Correction Lead is a game changer that replaces all other collars and leads. The reason dogs pull is because we pull. All collars from your basic flat collar to prong collar are loose and spin around to the back when your dog gets in front of you, or you bend your arm. This puts pressure on the dog’s trachea and their natural reaction is to pull as hard as possible in the opposite direction in an attempt to relieve the tension. Every time they get a little forward motion from you moving your arm or stepping forward, the dog is encouraged to keep pulling. If the dog is not a bad puller but there is always tension on the lead, this lets them know where you are without having to focus their eyes on you. People don’t want their dogs to choke so they use a harness.
The definition of a harness is a piece of equipment used to control an animal such as a draft horse to attach a load to be pulled. The very definition tells you what the harness encourages a dog to do…pull. By attaching around the chest, it allows the dog to harness their mass to pull harder than they could on any collar. Like the collar, the tension on the lead even if not pulling hard allows the dog to know where you are without focusing on you.
The Immediate Correction Lead solves this problem. Like us, canines have bilateral carotid arteries. Inside each carotid artery is a baroreceptor that controls blood pressure. The adjusting knot on the Immediate Correction Lead is placed over the baroreceptor located just under the dog’s jawbone and adjusted until you can fit a fingertip between the lead and the dog’s neck. It should be snug, not tight. It gives the dog the same sensation as when their mother picked them up in her mouth to comfort them as puppies. Many clients comment that their dog is calmer when they wear the lead adjusted properly.
When you walk naturally with your arms down at your side, they swing back and forth. When the dog feels the little “pop” on the lead as you walk, it is like a tap on the shoulder bringing their focus back on you. They quickly realize that by focusing on you they avoid any tension at all. Without tension there is no pulling in response to it. People are blown away by how minimal the “pop” can be with just a little training and conditioning. We have used it with over 3500 dogs with the biggest weighing 250 lbs. Using tension in attempt to control your dog is unsustainable physically and mentally and can lead to all types of injury up to and including Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI).
Traffic Lead
Traffic Leads are not a new idea by any stretch of the imagination. They are traditionally used by K-9 handlers to keep control of their dogs in tight quarters like traffic and crowds. If you put a dog on a 15- or 30-foot lead and walk away totally ignoring them, they will eventually walk up and into the natural heel position that dogs came up with and humans just labeled. Dogs have a 240-degree field of vision (humans only have 190-200). Dogs communicate using eye contact, movement, and touch. Their eyes on the movement of their higher-ranking dog. This allows them to coordinate a hunt while running all out. They adapted that to communicate with us. When their front paws are next to your heel, they can see your face thereby knowing where your focus is. This is how they locate and hunt prey. The natural heel is within six feet of the handler. Obviously, the farther they are to the side, the easier it is to see the higher-ranking dog when running. Face it, we cannot run fast enough to keep up with our dog so they would always be in the front putting them in the position of the higher-ranking dog. This is why all dogs need to be walked on a loose lead within the heel position, not the natural heel position. The closer they are to you the more they have to focus on you to keep the lead loose. When you see a police canine constantly looking up at the handler, you are seeing a perfect example of this. The dog looks to the handler for direction instead of making decisions on their own. We start every appointment off on a loose lead, until you have that you don’t have the dog’s focus. Until you have their focus, you cannot effectively communicate with them. When a person walks a dog, it should look like they are holding hands with a loved one. The #1 thing that hinders this is bending your arm. Even on the Immediate Correction Lead, if you bend your arm, you will put tension on the dog’s trachea, and they will negatively respond to it. Dogs watch everything we do, and they normally see you moving about with your arms moving naturally, not you holding one up. They see this as you are being wounded meaning you cannot take care of yourself so you can’t take care of them, so they naturally feel the need to lead and disregard you.
The loop of the traffic lead is hooked only on your middle finger (usually the left hand) and is connected to the Immediate Correction Lead. The reason for it only being on the middle finger is twofold. First, it removes the temptation of trying to use strength to control the dog, forcing you to use technique. The second, and this sounds strange to most people, but if your dog reacts to the point where you cannot control them, we don’t want you trying to hold onto the lead. The safety of the handler has got to come first or who will take care of the dog. Muscles contract under stress, they don’t expand. Dogs drag and injure people because people wrap leads around their hands or put their hands through the loop on the end of the leash.
The Traffic Lead attached to the Immediate Correction lead on a relaxed arm allows you to have control of your dog and move naturally without tension. A dog can only move with you without tension if you don’t allow tension. This does not allow tension stacking which is what occurs as a dog continues to pull on the leash towards something. You start in your house, step forward with the dog with your head up, shoulders back. As soon as you feel the slightest amount of tension on the lead, look over your right shoulder (this helps to keep good posture by keeping your head over your butt) and turn and walk the opposite direction. Keep your arm next to your body during the turn. Don’t attempt to pull the dog. Step forward until you feel them give in and the slack is back on the lead. You are conditioning them that the only way to avoid tension is by focusing on you and that as soon as they feel it they can make it disappear by focusing on you. You don’t teach a child manner at a restaurant; you teach them at home. How can a dog that has no focus in the house have focus in the front yard? This is also very mentally draining on the dog.
When dogs play, it is practice for the hunt. In a safe place, they establish leadership based on eye contact, movement, and touch so that when the hunt comes everyone knows who is following who. What sounds like a better relationship building experience to you? Letting your dog pull you out the door and down the street going to the bathroom wherever they please, or the mindset of going out to cover ground searching for resources and avoiding danger while being led by their higher-ranking dog…you. This conditions the dog to regard you in all things.
Immediate Correction Lead & Traffic Lead (Set)
MCS Seatbelt Attachment
There are plenty of seatbelt attachments on the market amid various other types of restraints for use with your dog while in your vehicle. However, like we discussed above with the Immediate Correction Lead and Traffic Lead, these types of things seldom come with directions on use or why they work in the first place. Purchasing any product to solve a problem without an explanation of use typically yields minimal results. The problem is that dogs need to be restrained in a vehicle for two reasons. The first is so their behavior does not distract the driver. The second is to restrain the dog in case of an accident. Understanding canine anatomy is a must. Like us using a seatbelt, it is very important that the device restricts movement. In the case of an accident, the farther something can move away from what it is affixed to the greater the momentum, the greater the momentum, the greater chance of injury. Three things are different about our seatbelt attachment. The first it is designed to attach to the Immediate Correction Lead the same way that the Traffic Lead does. The second is that it is significantly shorter than any others on the market. Thirdly, it has a specific way that it is to be used. When the dog is placed in the vehicle, the adjuster knot is to be moved from under the right jawbone to the 6 o’clock position on the dog’s head. This aids in calming the dog by providing immediate consistent correction every time they attempt to jump. As they attempt to move forward, it puts the pressure on the back of the neck pulling the head down. When the head is down, the body cannot move forward. This is very limiting and encourages the dog to submit by laying down to remove all tension. They will remember this and calm faster and faster every time they are placed in the vehicle. When possible, the attachment should be placed in the middle seatbelt. This way the same control is in place when the door is opened so you can take your time attaching your Traffic Lead before exiting the vehicle. This device was not designed and is not intended to prevent your dog from injury during a motor vehicle accident, it is to keep them under control and off of you while you are driving.
Save $10 when you purchase the Immediate Correction Lead, Traffic Lead and Seatbelt attachment for $80.
All products are handmade from mountain climbing rope, handsewn and sealed with maritime heavy duty shrink wrap. Lifetime Guarantee for craftmanship, not normal wear and tear or chewing.
To place an order simply e-mail Rick at bullshots59@aol.com